Often I have heard this statement.  Everyone wants native only plants, now, there is nothing wrong with native plants, in fact I own many, however this puts us in the passive mode that we are restricted to what we can grow.  I don’t know about you, but I love exotics.

I love when people ask for a plant that the general person does not know it even exists.



I love the salacious taste of the fruit in my mouth.



I love the different leaves and shapes and sizes of these different plants.

I guess I am kind of a plant rebel.  If you tell me I can’t grow it I will find a way.  We have plants from all over the world and my collection keeps growing.  I love plants that are exotic in nature.

Case and point.  Salvia Divinorum, this is a plant from Mexico and South America.  Teens now are growing these plants and smoking the dried leaves to get high, the US Gov is trying to outlaw the plant.  Do you realize that this is a very beautiful plant?  It grows well indoors and has a great look and smell, now I do not agree with the people abusing the plant, but the plant itself is very exotic.  I will continue to grow this plant, even if they ban it, I do not smoke it, I do not sell it to teens to smoke, I grow it because it’s a beautiful exotic plant.

This spring, we will be planting for our yard and for landscaping purposes, but how about for you?

Let’s look at some of the benefits of exotics.

1. Rare in nature, these plants are not found in many places in the world.



2. They are kept in pots and brought in during the cold weather and in the spring and summer can go outdoors.



3. You become the envy of the neighborhood



4. You become an expert in the eyes of everyone (No one else knows about these plants but you).



5. You get extremely healthy fruit that is free from pesticides, herbicides and chemicals.



6. You get the joy of harvesting a crop that YOU have grown yourself.

Many plants grow in pots and do very well.  Here in Tampa we don’t suffer from cold or snow, but I have lived up north many years with the same snow and ice that many of you face. 

Put yourself in a daydream right now; picture a nice cozy fire, the wind howling outside.  The thermometer outside the window showing negative 5 below zero, you see the driveway needs shoveled, as you glance out the window, but you know the cold and wind is something you don’t want to fight.  What to do, a real conundrum right?

Wrong, you sit down next to that roaring fire, you reach over to your Brazilian Grumichama Cherry tree and pick off a succulent ripe fruit that beckons you every day, you munch out on healthy edible fruit that you have grown yourself and realize that no one else within hundreds of miles has this plant or even knows what it is.  That is what makes it well worth the time and effort.

Now I am not trying to sell you my plants, I am just trying to get you to think “outside” the box, obviously you love plants or you would not be on our mailing list, you are one of the “elite”, the type of person that is not tied down to the whole “Native Only” routine that is being spouted now.  Let me first say for many people “Native Only” is a good idea, only because they lack the ability to care for non native plants or lack the knowledge.  If you put an invasive species into an area that it will thrive that is not a good thing, but I am talking about responsible exotics, someone that not only cares about the environment but wants that something special that no one else owns.

So when you are buying your spring plants, think exotic and be different, be special and be loved.

Peter

Side Note:



Our business will be in a major garden magazine in April “In The Field”, they have done a featured article on us.

What are plants?

Sun injury is caused by the bark heating up on cold winter days, then chilling rapidly when the sun goes down or is blocked such as from trees and clouds. It seems the tissue in the bark near the surface starts to warm up and become active.

When the temperature drops it kills this tissue. The result is sun injury, or sunken, elongated, darkened areas of the bark. Usually this occurs on the south sides of trees where the sun has warmed the bark.

This is most common on young trees with thin bark. Older trees, with thicker bark, are less sensitive to such temperature extremes. Other plants that have been pruned to expose previously shaded bark also can be injured this way. There are certain species with thin bark are more prone to sun injury, including cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, and mountain ash.

To prevent sun injury, wrap the bark of vulnerable trees in late fall with either some tree wrap tape, plastic tree guards, or similar light colored material. These can be found in most garden stores.

Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost, to avoid insects living under the material during the summer.

Wrap newly planted trees or young trees for at a minimum two winters. Wrap thin-bark trees for a minimum five winters.

Cold also can injure evergreens through discoloration, predominantly in late winter. It appears as browned leaf tips, large areas, or browning of needles of conifers. Such browning is often referred to as “desiccation”, also known as drying out of leaves.

Sunny days in winter, or wind, can cause evergreen leaves to lose water or “transpire”. Since the ground is frozen, roots can not get water, so the result is the leaves drying out and browning.

Similar to sun injury on bark, warm days can motivate cells to be active in leaves, only to be killed by sudden temperature drops when the sun disappears.

This mainly occurs in fall before plants are fully hardened, or in spring as new growth is occurring, with a sudden low temperature resulting in injury to  non-hardened tissues.

One obvious solution is to make sure these plants go into the winter well-watered. If there is less than an inch or two of rain a week in mid fall, make sure you water such plants. Another solution is to wrap these plants in burlap (not plastic that can heat up and cook the plants). 

Snow is one of the best protectors, so low lying plants can be protected by making sure they are covered with snow. You can lightly shovel snow on them, or place holiday boughs and trees next to them to trap the snow.

If you have plants that usually get damage, consider moving them if possible next season, or planting new ones in sites more protected from winter sun and wind.

Sprays to protect the foliage from drying out, called “anti desiccants” have been recommended in the past. Most studies seem to show they are not very effective.

Dieback is simply plant parts, such as twigs and buds, being killed by cold weather. This is often seen on deciduous shrubs, or those that lose their leaves.

Not much can be done to protect such plants, except to select more hardy varieties. Make sure next season in late summer you don’t over water, prune, or fertilize. All of these may stimulate dynamic growth which will not have time to harden properly.

If a tree or shrub is injured from dieback, don’t be too eager to prune off the apparent dead branches. Often these only may be dead on the surface, with living tissue underneath which will produce buds. 

You can carefully scratch the surface of the bark to expose the cambium layer underneath, it this is still green the branch is not dead. So wait until mid-spring to prune such branches, especially on less hardy roses which often show at least some dieback.

Roots can be injured by cold soil temperatures, generally at about 10 degrees (F) or lower. The good news is that due to the underlying heat in the soil, snow, and other factors, root and soil temperatures seldom get this low. Dry soils tend to get colder than moist soil, so fall watering will help to prevent this issue.

Making sure any cracks in the soil around newly planted trees or shrubs are filled before the first freeze. Covering the root zone with up to six inches of mulch, such as bark or pine needles, will keep roots warm much longer in the fall, as well as help retain the moisture for the soil.

Mulched soils also fluctuate less in temperatures during winter, which is better for root hardiness. Make sure to keep the mulch away from trunk and stems, or else mice may live in this material and feed on the bark.

A final way cold may damage trees and shrubs is through repeated freezing and thawing of soil in spring, called “frost heaving.” Such expanding and contraction of soil around roots can damage them, and raise new plantings or “heave” them from the soil.

Mulching, as well as planting early in the season so plants can be well-rooted by fall, minimizes frost heaving.

Fall is finally here and the weather for most of you will be turning cold, here are some fall tips for you:

    * Start planning your spring bulb garden now. Spring-blooming bulbs are planted in the fall to provide the chilling time required for spring blooms. Note the areas where you want to add bulbs for next year. Have your shopping list ready when the selection hits the garden centers. Remember to prepare your soil before planting bulbs. Work compost or other rich organic material into your soil to a depth of 12".

    * Dig up tender bulbs like elephant's ear, caladium, gladiolus, canna and dahlia before the first frost. When the foliage has turned yellow or brown on your bulbs, dig them up and store them for the winter. Replant bulbs in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. If you're storing summer bulbs such as dahlias and gladiolus, give them a quick check to see if any are rotting. If so, remove and discard.       Also check for excessive dryness. Squeeze a bulb to test for health. A good bulb will feel firm, not hollow or mushy. Don't squeeze too hard or you'll bruise the outer skin. In milder climates, leave tender bulbs in the ground. Protect them with a blanket of mulch several inches thick through the winter.

    * Water Conservation Tips. Remember that roses require special care in the fall. In early fall, suspend fertilization. Continuing to fertilize causes new growth that could be killed by winter's cold. After foliage drops, spray with fungicide, then cover plants with a minimum of 8" of loose, well-drained soil, mulch or compost. Prune canes back to 36" to prevent damage from winter winds.

    * Start planning your fall garden now. Annuals like chrysanthemums, impatiens, ornamental cabbage, and pansies are old favorites. Try adding a late vegetable crop of spinach or turnips to enjoy before winter sets in. Start them by seed in trays if your garden space is still occupied with fruit-producing plants.

    * Late summer's heat can stress your plants, especially those in containers. Check flower pots, window boxes and especially hanging baskets regularly for dryness. Also check the mulch in the flowerbed to see if it's enough for the remainder of the growing season.

    * Divide perennials. To keep plants from drying out, do the work on cool, cloudy day. Make sure each section you divide has at least one bud and some roots. Plant the divided perennials immediately. Not all perennials appreciate fall division, some prefer spring. Make sure your variety is suitable for fall division before digging.

    * Stop deadheading at the end of the season if you want your flowers to create seeds. Once the flowers are dead, cut them and allow them to dry. Remove the seeds by crumbling the dried flower head into a container. Separate the seeds from the debris and put them in a labeled envelope for next spring. Another option — let them fall to the ground and re-seed naturally.

Avid gardeners do not like this time of the year, it brings death to our plants and dormancy to those that do survive the cold.  How can we strive to keep this part of our lives intact without suffering the plants?

How can we sit down by our fireplace, toasting our feet with the heat radiating from the hearth, sipping a hot cup of tea, dreaming of Tahiti, and not feel the longing for tropical plants.  Well, I have a solution for you.

Your own Tropical Paradise.  We often see commercials of Tropical Vacations and dream of better days sitting under the sun with a drink in our hands.  What is it about the tropics we so enduring?  What lures us to these places?  In colder climates during the winter months plants have acclimated to the climate.  They can take freezing temperatures and months of snow and ice.  However tropical plants are not capable of surviving these climates.  But we still long for that Tropical fruit we buy in the store for outrageous prices.  What if we could go over to a tropical tree, select a ripe fruit and eat it right then and there, while outside a blizzard is taking place?  Our own tropical paradise, right inside out own home.  Many tropical plants will grow with the right care and conditions in areas that normally would not permit them.  These same plants that grow in abundance in Asia, South America, Africa, can grow right in your own living room, ready to pluck the ripe, sweet fruit grown specifically by you.

Potting

There are many different types of pots available and each has its benefits and drawbacks.  There is plastic with can heat up or freeze quickly, Metal, same as plastic,

Clay and wood dry quicker, ceramic that can be heavy and many others that you can buy at local garden centers.  For the most part all can be used quite successfully with tropical plants.  Choose one based on your own preferences.

These pots should have holes in the bottom for adequate drainage.  When you buy your pot, and before you put in soil, cover these holes with a mesh of some sort to help retain the soil, it is also good to put down an inch or two of gravel to insure good drainage.  With tropical plants drainage is essential to healthy plants. 

Potting soil from the local garden center will suffice; however a much better solution would be 1 part Perlite or Vermiculite, 1 part course sand, and 1 part Peat.  This gives good drainage as well as sufficient nutrients.  Make sure your soil is not packed down heavy to allow good drainage but not excessive drainage.

Remove your plant from its original container; look carefully at the root system.  It they are heavily packed in and there is more root then dirt, we want to prune these roots before we plant.  Take some of these roots and loosen them up and then carefully clip the ends to stimulate the plant to root more in its new container.  If pruning is not needed, then just loosen the root ball before planting.

Place the plant in the new container making sure you have filled it halve way with the new planting material.  You want to make sure that when you fill the rest of the container with soil, the soil line is the same as the original plant when you pulled it out.  The soil like should be about 1-4 inches below the rim of the pot when you are all finished.

Important key:  Make sure your fully grown plant will be proportional to your pot.  Don’t put an 8 foot tall tree in a 10 inch pot.  Allow the roots to be able to grow, the larger the pot the more fruit it will bear.

Light

Tropical plants usually require lots of sunlight, anywhere you can place them to receive full sunlight is beneficial to them.  Search on the internet for your species to find out their light requirements.  Some tropicals do well in partial shade however most need to receive the maximum sunlight available.

Tropical plants, when you receive them are most likely used to full sunlight, when you are going to bring them indoors, or for winter times, when bringing them indoors, you must acclimate them to your indoor area.  Make sure to put them near a good light source and if possible add additional light

Water

Tropical plants are used to lots of water, however they are also used to well drained soil, so their water requirements are different for potted plants.  These dependencies are based on size of the pot, size of the plant, type of plant, temperature where you keep the plant, the humidity and the type of soil you have.  You are usually safe to water, when the upper surface of the soil is dry before you water your plant.  Slowly fill the container watching for runoff at the bottom holes.  Remember that wood or clay pots dry faster, making watering more frequent and cooler weather slows down the growth of the plant, thus reducing the need to water as much.

Temperature

This is probably the key ingredient to successful tropical plant keeping.  NO FREEZING WEATHER.  Tropical plants cannot take cold temperatures, so you will need to find a way to bring these indoors.  Cold temperatures will lead to root damage, and leave damage.  Again it depends on the species of tropical plant you have to the extent it can take cold weather.  Some plants you can just cover overnight and then remove each morning, others will need to be brought indoors.  If you bring them indoors make sure you keep them away from drafts from doors or windows to freeze, and out of the heating vent areas so not to dry out too fast.

Fertilizer

Too much fertilizer is very bad for tropical plants.  The best type of fertilizer to use are water soluble types, any local garden center can help you pick out a good fertilizer that will meet the plants requirements.  Read the directions completely.  After spending good money on a beautiful tropical plant, you would hate to kill it by over fertilizing it.  Usually with a tropical plant the mature foliage will show deep green indicating that you are fertilizing on the correct scale.  Make sure your fertilizer has a complete balanced diet of Nitrogen,      Phosphorus, Potassium, and Lesser amounts of Magnesium, Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper, again Read the label.

Pruning

With most container tropical plants little or no pruning is needed.  However if the plant becomes “leggy” due to poor light conditions then cut it back greatly to force it to bush out.  If the top becomes too large for the root structure, again a large pruning spree is needed.  Also when you start to get leaf shed and twig die back this is an indication that the root structure is not large enough for the top foliage and pruning is needed.

    

Fruitfulness

Will I get fruit?  This is the question we all ask.  Is it worth the time and effort?  Ask anyone that has a fruit tree planted in a pot, as they pick tropical fruit on a blizzard day of 10 below zero, and they will always tell you “Yes!”  For the most part container tropic plants are dependant on the light source and size of the pot to how much fruit they will have.  Most fruit trees will fruit in pots as long as we keep all of the requirements alive in our head.  The larger the tree, the larger the pot that is needed.  Fruit will bear proportional to the size of the pot and plant.  Please keep in mind that some fruit will need a presence of another cultivator to be able to fruit.  Again check the specifics of your plant before you decide to buy it.

The Mexican petunia is a tender evergreen perennial that forms colonies of stemmy stalks standing 3 ft in height and of indeterminate width. The strong semi-woody stalks are distinctly vertical in aspect and hold attractive dark green, leaves oppositely at the nodes. The lance-shaped leaves are to 6-12 in in length and 1/2-3/4 in wide. When grown under hot sunny conditions the foliage assumes a metallic bluish cast that creates the perfect backdrop for the the scores of vibrant blue flowers that appear with the onslaught of hot summer weather. The blossoms are trumpet shaped and about 1.5-2 in diameter and are borne at the tips of the stems. Varieties with white, pink, and many shades of blue are available, as are dwarf versions that form clumps that are about 8-12 in. in height. Mexican petunia is very showy when in full bloom due to the clouds of admiring butterflies that swarm about the plants.

Mexican petunia is native to Mexico, but it has escaped cultivation and established in disturbed areas in the SE U.S., and can be found in habitats across Florida and in Northern States as annuals.

Prefers fertile soil with moisture, but is very adaptable to almost any climate. After flowering, cut back stems about halfway for a new crop! Mexican petunia can be grown indoors as a houseplant in bright light. It is typically free of pests and disease.

It prefers Sun to part shade. The quantity of blossoms is related to the amount of light the plant receives. The more direct sunlight the more flowers with fewer flowers appearing in overcast conditions or when grown in shadier conditions.

Average to moist moisture should be used. Mexican petunia is a water plant that becomes very aggressive with access to abundant moisture. Survives dry spells once established. When growing Mexican petunia indoors water freely when in active growth but water only when dry in winter.

Propagates by Cuttings, division, seed. Stems are very easy to root in moist soil. Over time the plant multiplies and the original stem becomes a colony.

Use Mexican petunia towards the back of a flowering border, or as the centerpiece in a container. Plant next to pentas (Pentas lanceolata) for an effective contrast in both foliage and flower color and texture, with a purple verbena (Glandularia puchella)as ground cover below to mirror the larger, purple flowers of R. britonniana (the butterflies like this combination too!). The dwarf varieties also do well (and look great) in containers - especially those situated in hot sunny situations. The dwarf Mexican petunias also make a handy perennial edging plant for flowers beds and as colorful groundcovers.

Mexican petunia is an easy to grow plant with strikingly colored flowers that is seldom bothered by disease or pests. It blooms enthusiastically throughout the hottest time of the year.

Home gardening is tricky business. Do you ever wonder how you can get your garden to look like those in popular home-and-garden magazines? Extensive gardening information can help you to plan for your own garden.

Getting a plant to respond well is something anyone can do - don't believe the myth of the green thumb. The only difference between you and those who seem to have them is that they know how to care for different types of plants. Several general steps are involved with getting the results you want, some of which you may have already been doing.

Getting your garden planted is not an easy job, and keeping your garden maintained can be another tricky subject altogether. If you are planning to create your own garden space, proper planning is essential. First, draw a diagram of the area in which you plan to plant your garden. This map of the landscape will be backbone of your plan. Be particularly conscious of sun and shade, dry and wet areas as these will be critical to your plant selection.

Now, begin your gardening by selecting the large shrubs and trees that will be permanent fixtures in your yard. Note their height, distinctive shade, and sunny areas. You decide how much sun or shade you want the areas of your yard to have by your choice of which plants to place.

Then, begin selecting the individual plants you want in your garden. Always remember that you are the one who will be looking at these plants and taking care of them. So choose the plants that make you happy and that you want to give attention to and care for. And of course, be mindful of the climate in your area - plants which thrive in hot sunny climes may not do as well when the winter chills set in up north.

Each kind of plant will have its own water needs, such as frequency of watering and amount of water. For easier care, put plants with similar water requirements near each other. Fertilizing plants will help plants to grow faster and protect against damage. Landscape plants respond very well to fertilizers with a high percent of slow-release organic nitrogen, which ensures that plants reach their full potential for deep, green color. Be sure to consider the condition of the root system.

When attempts at gardening fail, it is often not because people took poor care of their plants, but rather that they chose their plants without taking into consideration the specifics of soil type, temperature zone, and climate that will dictate how well plants will plants do in the area. It's a good idea to visit your local garden center and peruse the catalogs to look for those plants that fill your needs and can thrive in your local environment and climate.

And while you're there, ask a lot of questions. Garden centers tend to attract plant-lovers and experts who really want to help.

Article Source: http://www.gardenepic.com

We invest thousands of dollars on plants and landscaping for out yard. For some reason, we deem it necessary to compete with those around us for the best yard, or just for a nice yard.



Those of us that are plant lovers search high and low for something exotic or a bargain. EBay can be both; however there are some precautions you need to take before you buy.

1. Make sure that you are dealing with a real nursery, not just someone selling out of their back yard. This can easily be done by asking the seller if they have a license to sell plants. Most states require more then one license. Here in Florida I need 3. One for the city, one for the county, and my plant license from the Agriculture department. I get inspected regularly to make sure my plants are high quality and free from disease. If a seller can not produce a valid license DO NOT BUY. You could be in trouble for importing in diseased plants or plants that are not allowed.



2. Insured. Any real business will be insured. This if for multiple purposes. There are liability concerns that should be addressed by any business person. The insurance protects the seller not the buyer.



3. Invasive Plants. The buyer is the person responsible for making sure the plant is allowed in the state. Every state has specific laws requiring what plants are allowed in the state. Even though very few packages are checked by the state, if caught the plants could be confiscated or worse, you, the buyer, could be heavily fined. Most states will not come after the seller but will come after the buyer, since they live in that state.



4. Zone. Not all plants can survive in the zone you live. We sell tropical plants. These plants will not grow in zone 5. I also have an eBook and an eBay guide that will show you how to grow these plants in any zone. Most tropical plants have the ability to grow anywhere if you take the right steps. Just think, if you could walk into your living room and pick a rare lychee fruit and eat it while watching a blizzard out your window.



5. Shipping and packing. This is a subject that most people do not want to hear. When shipping a plant its not as simple as throwing in a box and taking to the post office. If not packed correctly the stem will break and die. Precautions need to be taken to make sure they will not break. We spend lots of money to pack our plants, we put bamboo stakes to keep the stem in one piece. We wrap the pot so the soil does not come out, we water and place a moisture material around the plant so the plant will survive. These are all additional steps to make sure you receive a plant arrives alive. A seller who charges bare minimum for shipping on a plant that is already very cheap is usually someone that does not have a license to sell and you are taking your chances with them. A good nursery charges a decent amount for shipping and handling, just to make sure you get your plant. All these costs the seller incurs are usually part of the handling fee. If the seller is not charging the buyer for this, he is eating this price somewhere else, usually in quality, license fees and insurance. Yes, you might get that plant for 3 dollars cheaper with another seller, b